When sewing on Toilet Paper to get good results check out these options...
1. Use medium to heavy weight Cut Away or Tear Away Stabilzer but never actually tear it from tp.
2. Use a smaller needle. (I use size 8)
3. Check your tension settings. (I use 0-3)
4. Use a slower sewing speed ( upper right of picture below shows mine set to slowest speed).
5. Use another brand of toilet paper. (Charmin, Northern Ultra Plush, Cottonelle)
6. Add extra stabilizer between hooped sheet and machine  if needed.
7. Add another tp square under the already doubled tp square for more padding if needed.

Ok I didn't mean to scare you. There really is no "art" of hooping but it is important to get it right. You mainly just want the fabric FIRM in the hoop.  Firm not excessively tight. Loose is not good either. Tight or Loose can throw off a good sewout from the start.  Also try practicing hopping your stabilizer with the fabric and without. If you have a good medium to heavy weight fabric that is hoopable you may can just slip a piece of stabaizer right under between the hoop and the plate/feed area of you machine when stitching.  Practice make not neccesarily perfect but gives you all kinds of options to perfect your own hooping and stabilizing techniques.

When you first open up an applique design you may notice many many color changes. Well you can ignore most of them but do not re-order the colors to save steps. Most software and machines tend to put their own color breaks into the sew out process to mark different parts to an applique. You can usually use the color you plan to use for the final satin stitch around the edges. If not the same color atleast a lighter color that will not show through what the final result will be. There are 3 parts to most appliques that involve 4  steps.

1. Part One - Placement Stitch
2. Part Two- Tack Stitch
3. Not a Part but a step- TRIM FABRIC
4. Part Three- Satin Cover Stitch

**IMPORTANT** Please remember DO NOT UN-HOOP your project/fabric until the complete sew out is finished. Only remove the Hoop from the sewing machine when you are trimming the fabric to the tack line. Curved scissors work great for this.

Here is a simulated chart showing and giving more information about each step in appliqueing.

		Try sewing these stitches in all the same color even though the machine will treat each as a different color and stop for a thread change. The colors vary and these are the ones I have chosen for my sample design which you can download HERE and give it a try.
		This is the Placement Stitch, It will show you where to set your fabric to be appliqued. Make sure your fabric piece covers the whole outline. Best to use a square until your perfect your applique skills. I have used Black as an example. This will be the first thread change in this design. As you will see the final satin stitch will be red so it is just as easy to use red here for your placement stitch. Your machine will complete the heart. I just happen to stop the simulation at this point. Different softwares may determine which lines make up their applique designs. Mine tend to have just as I show here. 1 placement, 1 tack, then you trim to the tack and it sews the final satin. Occasional you will find a design that will have more than one tack stitch.
		Here I have used a grey thread to simulate the Tack Down Stitch. I highlighted it with white in the picture. So once the placement stitch has been sewn you know where to put your fabric. You may want to use a bit of spray adhesive to control slippage among the two fabrics. Once the grey tack down stitch has sewn out you may REMOVE your hoop from your machine and take a pair of embroidery scissors (small and curved like toenail scissors, save money and buy those if you like) I have placed a light green line here to show you should trim the favric as close as possible without cutting the tack stitch. Like I said you can use the same colors but the machine will stop for a thread change.
		This is where I stopped the simulation so you can see that the final satin stitch is now being sewn over the tack down stitch where you have just trimmed the fabric close to. Remember all three steps could have been sewn in the same color but the machine will still stop to point out the next step in the applique.
		This would be the final result. There are more advanced applique designs out there that mixed regular filled embroidery designs that is sewn on top of your fabric. (ex. circle applique with a face in the center sewn on top of the fabric to create an applique smile face) There will extra steps in between the normal steps of the applique. Make sure to go over each digitizer's charts and instructions they may have pertaining to their particular style of digitizing appliques.

When you purchase any applique from GoodiesByGail your design will come with a detailed chart like this...

**NOTE** For some reason machines tend to sometimes interpret a light pink color in an embroidery design as "applique". This may show up on your machine, so don't panic if you know your not about to sew an applique design. I don't know why this happens I have changed the pink shades many times in my designs and it still tends to happen with most of the light to fleshy shades of pink. It still sews out correctly it's just the name of the color will say "applique" instead of "light pink" on your machine.

A patch is made up of 1 Shape Applique and an Embroidery Design that fits inside the applique. If you have a software that lets you add designs to make a one hoop sew out of multiple designs this will help enormously when making patches.   Make sure the Applique Shape is sewn out first then the design in the center. (See above "How to Applique" if needed) I have provided a "I'm #1" sample patch with the applique and design already combined for you. You can download the sample HERE to try along with these steps...

Step 1	Hoop a sheet of Water Soluable Stabilizer.
Step 2	Place a layer of cutaway stabilizer or heavy weight hoopable fabric (ex. Denim) on top of the hooped water soluable stabilizer. Try NOT to use tearaway stabilizer, if you do, DO NOT tear away, treat as if cutaway.
Step 3	Run First Tack Down Stitch of the Shape Applique.
Step 4	Trim fabric/cutaway stabilizer with curved embroidery scissors (or toenail scissors) as close to Tack Stitches as possible.
Step 5	Run Second Tack Down Stitch.
Step 6	Run Satin Cover Stitch of the Shape Applique.
Step 7	Sew out your center design.
Step 8	Remove the Water Soluable Stabilizer from your patch. Don't want to get the patch wet? Use some of those pointy q-tip type cosmetic applicators. Wet the pointy tip and watch the stabilizer disolve from your patch.
Step 9	Attach your patch any way you want. Spray Adhesive, Heat-n-Bond, or just sew it on.
Let your Immagination run wild!

Three top reasons a design's outline may be off.

1. Machine Settings - consult your machine for tension settings or schedule maitenance for your machine with your dealer.
2. Poorly Hooped Fabric - Fabric needs to be firm, not tight or loose.
3. Yes, I must admit sometimes it just comes down to the digitizing of the design.

Here are some helpful FREE downloads from 3rd party companys. Some may be evaluation/demos and some may be used way past the evaluation date.

1. WINZIP - Utility for unzipping Zip Files.
2. WINRAR - Utility for unzipping RAR and Zip Files.
3. AMBASSADOR - Free Design viewer, sizer and embroidery format converter.
4. PATTERN MAKER VIEWER - View and Print Cross Stitch patterns made with Pattern Maker Software.(Free)
5. PC STITCH VIEWER - View and Print Cross Stitch patterns made with PC Stitch Software.(Free)
6. EMBIRD - Modular software for computerized embroidery.
7. TRUESIZER - Free re-sizing software that also converts to .ART format. To download you have to sign up for a FREE embroidery startup account.